Worker-owners Sasha Coleman, Ellie Tiglao, and Kyisha Davenport had their restaurant, Tanam, recognized by the James Beard Foundation Awards. – Photo by Shira Laucharoen

By Shira Laucharoen

Somerville restaurant Tanam and chef Cassie Piuma of Sarma were nominated as semifinalists for the 2020 James Beard Foundation Awards, as announced on February 26. Tanam was named for the category “Best New Restaurant,” while Piuma was selected for the section “Best Chef: Northeast.” The prestigious awards are presented annually to recognize those in the culinary arts in the United States.

Tanam is a worker-owned restaurant that features Filipino cuisine, tucked away in Union Square’s Bow Market. To be chosen as a semifinalist for the James Beard Awards is a tremendous honor and affirms the work the restaurant’s creators have done, said chef and art director Ellie Tiglao.

“It’s been hard to get a grasp on what we are really creating here, and it feels like appreciation that the James Beard Foundation sees how we’re pushing boundaries and seeing and telling stories, that they see who can make amazing food and beverage and create something world class,” said Tiglao.

On Wednesdays and Sundays, Tanam serves Kamayan, an eat with your hands feast. – Photo by Shira Laucharoen

The inspiration for Tanam came from its predecessor, a popup called Pamangan, which translates from the Filipino dialect Kapampangan as “something to eat,” an idea that was conceived of in 2014 by Tiglao and her brother.

Tanam emerged in its permanent home at the start of 2019, growing out of the concept that a group of ten or fewer people could enjoy “narrative cuisine,” food that tells stories. The restaurant is operated by Tiglao, chef and kitchen manager Sasha Coleman, and bar director and front of house manager Kyisha Davenport.

The structure of Tanam is non-hierarchical, and each of the three worker-owners have equal responsibility and decision making powers. The restaurant carries a commitment to fair labor practices and sustainable sourcing, and as a space that is run by three women of color, Tanam identifies with a mission of bringing social justice to the table.

“We talk a lot about transformative justice in mission driven spaces. …How do you change the way a restaurant works, how do you change the way you live your life in hospitality?” said Davenport. “We get people around this table, and we tell these stories. When people come here as strangers and leave as friends, it is very clearly possible.”

Part of the creative vision behind Tanam is to tell marginalized stories, stories that do not often get told, said Coleman. As dishes are being served, the chefs and worker-owners will relate the history and culture behind the meal, which serves as an expression of identity.

On Wednesdays and Sundays, they present Kamayan, an elaborate eat with your hands feast, with highlights such as daing, marinated and

Cassie Piuma of the restaurant Sarma was nominated for a James Beard Award. —Photo by Sarma

pan fried baby milkfish, and lumpiang shanghai, ground pork spring rolls. On Fridays and Saturdays, Tanam currently showcases a menu by Coleman, “From Moonshine to Massachusetts,” inspired by the Great Migration from the south, in the United States.

Somerville restaurant Sarma is overseen by Piuma, who modeled the eatery after the traditional meyhanes of Turkey, or lively, bustling neighborhood spots where people go to eat and converse. The menu offers bold, bright, seasonal flavors, with an emphasis on spices and herbs. After studying Middle Eastern cooking for over a decade, Piuma opened Sarma in 2013, bringing her vivacity and expertise to its kitchen.

“Sarma’s menu is unique in that it bridges the gap between the familiar and the exotic,” wrote Piuma in an email. “The flavor profiles are deeply rooted in tradition but translate into dishes that are approachable and comforting to the American palate. The menu invites guests to experience something new but hopefully also leaves them feeling a bit of nostalgia.”

Piuma explained that she did not cook often as a child but was frequently surrounded by food. Her father, a Greek American, would often prepare staples such as souvlaki and avgolemono soup, while her mother sold baklava and spinach pies. While Piuma had originally intended to pursue a pre-med degree, she found more creativity in the dining scene, and eventually began working in restaurants, an experience that changed the direction of her life. Getting nominated for the James Beard Award feels like confirmation that she is on track, she wrote.

“It’s so much emotion wrapped up in years of hard work, dedication, and sacrifice,” wrote Piuma. “It is a huge hug and reassurance that we’re on the right path, but most importantly, it’s recognition for the most conscientious, caring, and kick ass staff in the city. From the ground up, that place is just dripping with soul, really dedicated human beings who believe in curating something more than themselves, something special.”