by The Somerville News Food Critic

The wind chill was in the single digits on the first night I visited Tu Y Yo, a family owned Mexican restaurant in Powderhouse Square. I was looking forward to sipping a margarita under dim red lights and pretending it was sunset along the Veracruz coast. While neither of these details came to be – their alcohol license is for beer and wine only and the lights above the cozy booths suggested mid-afternoon instead – the rest of the meal did not disappoint. 

I ordered instead the Sangria Tradiciola – a spicy red sangria with cinnamon, lemon, and lime – which was warming and a nice twist on the sweet sangria most often served with Mexican fare. The sweeter red version is also available, as well as white sangria, a variety of beers, and a fine selection of nicely priced wines.

            The appetizers ($3.50 – $7.95) have familiar names like Quesadillas and Tostadas but the combination of traditional Mexican ingredients have more flair and depth of flavor than your average cheese and meat slathered tortillas. The homemade corn flour tortilla used in many of the first course dishes is a fantastic version of an old standard, with a rich nutty flavor and smooth texture. The red and green salsas served with every appetizer are delicious as well. Neither is very spicy – in fact nothing on the menu made me reach for my water – but both have a distinct and earthy flavor that compliment different menu items. The green mole with pork (Puerco en Mole Verde) for example, ordered as an appetizer but offered as a main course entrée, was delicious alone with its slightly chocolate, pumpkin seed and tomatillo mole sauce, but took on a new personality wrapped in a corn tortilla with a splash of the red salsa. The green salsa did the same with other appetizers that needed its deep earthy flavor.

The presence of so much seafood on the menu was a pleasure, especially after being assured by the friendly staff of every ingredient’s freshness. I had little doubt of how recently the red snapper (Pescado eb Escabeche) had been swimming happily in the sea when tasting it’s tender flakiness within the very light and crispy fried crust. A special scallop and shrimp ceviche appetizer was offered on one visit, a feat rarely attempted without the freshest ingredients.

The rice and beans accompanying most entrees were standouts as well. The beans, the chef explained, were partially pureed and given their smoky flavor from chipotle peppers and, surprisingly, only a single clove of garlic. Two kinds of rice accompanied many dishes, imparting a nice variety as well adding to the colorful presentation.

Another main course (main courses range from $10.95 and up) standout was a special dish of poblano pepper stuffed with spicy meat, sweet fruit, herbs and vegetables in a rich cream sauce. Combining sweet and savory elements, the sauce could have accompanied a dessert with its hint of cinnamon and sugar, but it was surprisingly delicious alongside the spicy pepper and meat, with sweet peaches and other fruits to tie together the filling and sauce. My only complaint about this unique dish was that the sauce was room temperature when my meal was served.

The staff at Tu Y Yo was quite welcoming, efficient, and knowledgeable about their authentic menu, with many dishes indicating their original creator’s name and the recipe’s date of birth. The head chef even made a special appearance to inquire about the meal and apologize that he couldn’t get fresh pomegranate seeds to finish off a dish due to the inclement weather. “Not to worry!” I assured him. “Everything was delicious.” And from my seat in the warmly painted dining room, between bites of the sweet Empanadas De Natilla, I almost forgot that I was in Somerville on a cold winter evening.