There, stalls of fresh produce beckon the most discerning of buyers; typically wholesalers for grocery stores and restaurant chains. While he doesn't stand out as the only chef in town, John Ryan is certainly a restaurant owner who goes the extra mile to hand-select fresh produce for his recipes.

Ryan, 46, the owner of The Green Tomato II on Elm Street in Davis Square, arrives at the produce market at 4 a.m. each day, feeling pretty happy to do what he likes to do for a living-make others happy through a nice, home-cooked meal.

The American and Italian eatery features three kinds of homemade soups each day, sauces, gravies and even mashed potatoes. Nothing comes out of a can.

"I like to make people happy, and a lot of times it's as simple as making a good meal," Ryan said. "It goes a long way."

He opened The Green Tomato II this past August. Ryan opened his first restaurant, The Green Tomato, in Reading six years ago. He was formerly a restaurant consultant, and many of the places he worked with to this day use his recipes.

"I can take that a bit far; I even make my dog (Maggie) her own meals," he admitted. "She loves steamed chicken and vegetables."

Ryan grew up in Lynn, the older sibling of two sisters and one brother. While all the other kids wanted to play ball or work on their car, he opted to watch his grandmother cook homemade sauces. "So the passion for food was there right away," he said.

Since moving into Davis, Ryan has enjoyed doing business in such an eclectic community that is also easy going and friendly. While he has felt the grip of the economic downturn, he plans to remain in Davis and is optimistic that things will pick up.

In the meantime, he can focus on keeping it simple. Even if it boils down to letting eager children go behind the counter to make their own dessert (with parental approval).

"It was nice to just see them enjoy themselves," he said.

The Green Tomato II is offering a 25% special off anything on the menu through January 24.