Paul Malvone earned tournament berth after winning the Battle of the Best Burger on Everyday with Rachel Ray. - Photo by Andrew Firestone

Burger Company competes for national title

By Andrew Firestone

Paul Malvone’s favorite thing to do is act as a waiter in his own restaurant. At the Boston Burger Co., every time he hears someone has ordered his new smash-hit of a sandwich, “The Hot Mess,” he likes to bring it out personally, just so he can ask, “whose got the Hot Mess?” and then watch their reaction upon experiencing the taste.

“Someone will always sit there and go ‘oh, I’m the Hot Mess,” he said, remembering the humor of presenting the open-faced burger. “Their eyes light up when the see it.”

Since leaving his job as a postman in 2009, the Medford native’s Boston Burger Company in Davis Square has provided a hole-in-the-wall nook for gourmet burger lovers. Now, like so much in Somerville, the rest of the world apparently wants more.

Malvone goes to Florida to compete in the “Burger Bash” on Food Network at the South Beach Wine and Food Festival, on February 24. The winner can claim tastiest burger in the world.

Malvone earned tournament berth after winning the Battle of the Best Burger on Everyday with Rachel Ray, being claimed as Ray’s own representative in the contest. The “Hot Mess” will go up against the most elite burgers in the country, including two Food and Wine Magazine “Best New Chefs,” Top Chef Spike Mendelsohn, Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto, and Michael Schlow of Boston’s Radius.

“We’re taking something to South Beach. Talents, I don’t know,” said Malvone “It’s a little bit of Somerville vs. Everybody.”

“The Hot Mess”

When asked about the creation of the legendary burger, Malvone was humble. “Honestly, I don’t think you can make the ‘perfect burger’,” he said. “I make it like I would want to make it for myself.” Malvone gave credit to partner Sebastian Fricia for creating the original iteration, “The Big Mess.” Finding the name and ingredients lacking a certain “pop” Malvone added the peppers, sweet fries and name to the burger, and soon it was a mainstay on the menu.

“People can have fun with it, get messy with it,” he said. “It’s supposed to be messy.  Sharing a few of his sticking points, Malvone divulged his choice taste factors, “American cheese has a lot of flavor, when it melts. I think that helps add to the burger.”

As far as satisfaction is concerned, Malvone relished only the happiness of his customers. “The clean plate says it all,” he said. “People like what they’ve had and they’ve finished it.”

The Skinny

Fresh beacon, a hearty helping of vegetables and a scrumptious eight-ounce slab frame this narrative. Taking a bite into the “Hot Mess” is not so much a meal as it is an experience, and a sublime one at that. Merely looking at the burger, dripping with thousand-island dressing, and, piled high with red onions, jalapenos, pickles and beacon, it is enough to make one salivate more the Pavlov’s hounds.

However, the burger itself is more delicious than you could have possibly hoped for. As long as you don’t mind getting a little messy, it is as perfect an American burger experience could possibly be. The first thing you will notice is how absolutely delicious the dish is. It hits you, tangy, sharp, hot, sweet, a host of sensations invade your mouth, and put your taste-buds to good use (more than you’re used to). This simple, transcendent experience should last you what feels like a few hours, even if it’s only a few seconds.

The second thing you will notice is how incredibly delicate the taste is. The burger, a 80/20 angus, lovingly cooked to your specifications, seems to act as a ringleader for the amazing range that the burger bestows. The bacon contrasts with the dressing, that complements the jalapenos, that pops with the sweet fries, melting into the American cheese, sizzling on top the patty.

The array of textures is astounding too. Something as little as shredding the lettuce, it has a marvelous affect on how well the burger melds into your palette. The crisp bacon, combined with the melted, gooey cheese and dressing works in perfect unison. Prepare for the involuntary “mmmmm.”

Service is outstanding. Prepare to be treated like royalty by your kind servers Maura and Caverly among others. Even if you don’t ask for more napkins when taking this dripping monster on, they’ll be sure to lend you a hand with a smile. Unlike many of the burger’s festival competitors, the setting is not a stuffy indoor affair, but more of a “round-the-corner diner” with its wonderful view of Davis Square.

Grade: A+

Now go and have this burger.